View Full Version : rear disc conversions
wots the best way to a do disc conversions?
:thumb:
Buy both my Cav rear disc assemblies before i scrap the car later today lol
Rear disc/caliper assembly from Cav/Calibra etc
Backing plates (£13 of eBay)
Cav or Astra handbrake cables mated to nova front section handbrake cable IIRC
wot about using golf stubs,
they just use bolts i heard, but do i use the discs aswell
Welsh Dan
22-06-08, 03:40 PM
If you're fitting golf assemblies, you'll need the whole assembly.
ainsley_brader
22-06-08, 04:37 PM
what golf do they come from?
still unsure, i think mk2.
has any1 got info on how a hydraulic handbrake works.
Welsh Dan
22-06-08, 04:56 PM
A hydraulic handbrake either operates the rear calipers, or a seperate set of rear calipers. To pass an MOT you still need a cable handbrake.
A hydraulic handbrake either operates the rear calipers, or a seperate set of rear calipers. To pass an MOT you still need a cable handbrake.
i take it there is sum sort of piping i can buy to get it to work the existing calipers. how would you go about fitting a second set of calipers:thumb:
A hydraulic handbrake is a waste of time unless your planning on rallying IMO.
A hydraulic handbrake is a waste of time unless your planning on rallying IMO.
Agreed, for road use it will consist of a lot of "dead money" so to speak. £90+ just for lever assembly/master cyclinder @ .70 alone, Bias valve another £40 for used Wilwood, £100 worth of stainless lines and fittings etc etc etc
Agreed, for road use it will consist of a lot of "dead money" so to speak. £90+ just for lever assembly/master cyclinder @ .70 alone, Bias valve another £40 for used Wilwood, £100 worth of stainless lines and fittings etc etc etc
the car is gunna b for track/road,
the shell has already had the hand brake hole welded up along wiv the ger stick hole, so thought this mightb easyest way
Even for track its a waste of time pal IMHO. Fair play if you want something to brag about at the pub (im not being condescending by the way :)). but you will never come across a situation where you need to pull a swift handbrake turn on a track! Grinding out a new hole for a normal handbrake lever will still be easier, not to mention your going to need a cable operated handbrake for the MOT anyway :)
Road/forest rallying is a different story, and its a very valid improvement.
Even the disc conversion isnt needed for track. The only real benefit of a rear disc conversion on a track car is better heat dissipation, and theyre much easier to service. But as for braking power, you will have to bias them down to prevent the back locking up in a stripped out nova, to a point where you have the same braking force as you would have had with drums, and I for one have never had a problem with overheating rear brakes.
Most of the most successful track cars on here are still running standard drums and shoes :)
Welsh Dan
22-06-08, 11:10 PM
On this note, will the Astra G rear disc setup fit? They have the handbrake built into the caliper, and the handbrake adjustment is on the handbrake lever.
Astra G is a 5 studder though isnt it? (Admittaddly not all but some)
TBH Lee has a very valid point, handbrake is not needed on track IMO. Rallying yes, all the time its used :D hence you'd be after a relability & sheer rear braking efficent setup.
Welsh Dan
23-06-08, 08:19 AM
The ones with discs at the tail end are 5 stud yes.
Even for track its a waste of time pal IMHO. Fair play if you want something to brag about at the pub (im not being condescending by the way :)). but you will never come across a situation where you need to pull a swift handbrake turn on a track! Grinding out a new hole for a normal handbrake lever will still be easier, not to mention your going to need a cable operated handbrake for the MOT anyway :)
Road/forest rallying is a different story, and its a very valid improvement.
Even the disc conversion isnt needed for track. The only real benefit of a rear disc conversion on a track car is better heat dissipation, and theyre much easier to service. But as for braking power, you will have to bias them down to prevent the back locking up in a stripped out nova, to a point where you have the same braking force as you would have had with drums, and I for one have never had a problem with overheating rear brakes.
Most of the most successful trEven for track its a waste of time pal IMHO. Fair play if you want something to brag about at the pub (im not being condescending by the way :)). but you will never come across a situation where you need to pull a swift handbrake turn on a track! Grinding out a new hole for a normal handbrake lever will still be easier, not to mention your going to need a cable operated handbrake for the MOT anyway :)
ck cars on here are still running standard drums and shoes :)
ok it is for bragging as much as its for tracklol ,
also want sumthin a bit differant, and they look the part in a stripped out nova. for those who know the car, its novachris old shell, its got the vauxsport decals on it. :thumb:
Some Astra G's came 4 stud as well...
As for your Rear Discs, Cavalier ones are spot on as is the hand brake set up on it. They lock myCavs tight and with a Nova being a lot lighter, it wont be a bother latching it right round.
I'm just praying you're not gonna be chavving around hand braking your Nova into corners.
Some Astra G's came 4 stud as well...
As for your Rear Discs, Cavalier ones are spot on as is the hand brake set up on it. They lock myCavs tight and with a Nova being a lot lighter, it wont be a bother latching it right round.
I'm just praying you're not gonna be chavving around hand braking your Nova into corners.
lol asiff, the amount of time and money its took, that will b for the track:thumb:
As for your Rear Discs, Cavalier ones are spot on as is the hand brake set up on it
did you hAve to weld the backing plate on?
Yeah you do but its not major.
You want a run down of whats required?
Yeah you do but its not major.
You want a run down of whats required?
go for it:thumb:
Right, this is the way I did mine (stillaint been fitted 2years on. LOL!!)
First ogg, get your donor rear beam and take off the hubs including the piping thats been connected to the rear beam. Cut if off at the front of the beam on the flexi pipe, unclip the clip holding the lint to the beam and feed it through gently so as not to bend or kink your lines.
Get a 4" Angle Grinder and get a propper cutting blade. Slice the Hub Mounting Plate off the rear beam and you'll be left with the flat metal plate to weld onto your own beam after you cut the origional Nova plate off it http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y92/Dods1/Pic28001.jpg
(after removing your drums. Use the Nova Bolts to mount the Disc setup as the Cav ones are too big) Line the plate up correctly so as the Bleed nipple faces upwards and the wheel will be centred when alls said and done. IIRC, theres 1 hole that lines up with the new Plate.
Weld the new plates in place, drill out the new holes and bolt all up, connect your lines and bleed throughly. If your bleed nipples break off its possible to bleed the calipars from the line into them, but not at all ideal.
If you can, you can use the brake compensator valves from the Cav donor car to reduce the chance of the rears locking up under heavy breaking. Either that or fit a Bias Valve.
easy enough. cheers Dod
Yes, the fitting of the brake assembly is quite easy. However your after a fly off handbrake to be fitted aswell :thumb:
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