Remove key and engine runs on

[Iain]

Yep just as Alex said, I have multiple ign live circuits running off the relay straight from the killswitch.

I've wired in the relay correctly AFAIK, done the same as I have for the air horn and that works OK.

[16v Nova Kev]

this happened to me. in my case it was dodgey copper track on the clocks.

[Iain]

I'll try it without the clocks, worth a shot.

[AlexW]

That is not your problem.

[novarobbo]

i had a problem with my astra td and it was alternator related

[Iain]

Here's some more test findings, think its something to do with the way I've wired the relay as if I connect the new ign live wires to the old one it all works fine

Pull original switched live off relay during "run on period" and engine stops

Measure original black wire during "run on period" and its showing 4v and new output is showing 12v

wtf is going on?
I have the relay wired up as follows:



So

30 = to battery (via fuse)
87 = to output (ECU ign live)
86 = Ground
85 = Original ign live wire

[L14MNP]

Unless you have typed that wrongly, 85 and 86 are the wrong way around.

[Iain]

I've tried it both way rounds, thought it was interchangeable?

I've semi resolved it now. The ignition live I was using was the one that originally ran to the front of the car, I think it was for the coil? This looked like it was actually unfused and split from various other black wires on the bulkhead...?

By running this one directly to the ECU ignition live (through a fuse) and using the fag lighter ignition live on the relay it seems to work.

Can anyone explain why this is?

[Adam]

The way youve got the relay wired is fine. Personally I wouldnt of done it like that, but it should work fine.

And its better how youve wired it up now, with the ecu directly to an ignition live instead of through a relay.

[Iain]

Frick knows why it was behaving weirdly then. Any ideas where I should take a new ignition live from for the relay? Just anywhere as it won't be adding much load?