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Thread: Benn's on going build

  1. #4631
    Go low or Go home. Moderator Benn's Avatar
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    So do i still measure the amount of movement?
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    Go low or Go home. Moderator Benn's Avatar
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    Right, took the spring out of the coilover then refitted. I normally run the car at about 7".



    Jacked up as far as it would go. Gap between where the spring would go is 4". Alot of shaft angle. Cant move the shaft in and out of the cvs.

    Shaft angle at 4"



    Lowered to a gap of 6"



    Shaft angle.



    Still cant move the shaft at all...

    Lowered to 9", which is lower than i'd ever had it.



    Shaft now points more down,



    But still cant move the shaft in and out. No matter how hard i pull and push it... Which i'm guessing is the main prob....
    Last edited by Benn; 10-12-12 at 07:08 PM.
    All I wanted was a Pepsi, just one Pepsi
    Far from suicidal
    Still I get them tendencies
    Bringing back them memories
    That I really miss when I reminisce

  3. #4633
    Club Member Club Member fearless's Avatar
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    Have you undone the castle nut on the outer cv joint - Your shaft wont move in or out if your outer cv joint is tight against the bearing as there is no plunge in the outer joint
    Dave France - The talent behind Fearless Motorsport Developments (FMD), creator of many a feature car including Brett Warburton's NovaWRC TotalVX cover car - a test run for my own project !!

  4. #4634
    Go low or Go home. Moderator Benn's Avatar
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    Ah i did it up, as i thought the lose Cv would just move so i'm be measuring that.
    All I wanted was a Pepsi, just one Pepsi
    Far from suicidal
    Still I get them tendencies
    Bringing back them memories
    That I really miss when I reminisce

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    No idea what some of the people on MIG are saying, but Lee knows what he's talking about and I think Dale is trying to explain what I have except what he means is the shaft is too short "as is" and effectively wants lengthening via the route I took. It is the better way over spacing the CV outer into bearing because there's no increased detriment to the angle [be it only small].

    Looking at some pictures in relation to castor, you'd benefit from running more positive too. You can go pretty far with it if you get the back down.

    Nay sayers about ride height are wrong because you'd need to be lower than mine and I'm not sure that you are.

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    BTW jacking the car up on one corner like that to compress, even with a spring in, won't be how it actually sits on the road. Believe me, it will be lower.

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    Go low or Go home. Moderator Benn's Avatar
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    Yeah Dale as explained it quite well. But with the castle nut done up there is no movement in the shaft at all and there needs to be. So i need to have the circlip grove moved up the shaft both ends to make it shorter giving me the movement yes? But he's saying it's to long, so the shaft is holding the cages out so there is no movement..

    I cant see i'm running lower than you, Will your bigger wheels help tho?

    And i know jacking it up isnt the right way to do it, but it's giving me the closest info i need and can work with...
    All I wanted was a Pepsi, just one Pepsi
    Far from suicidal
    Still I get them tendencies
    Bringing back them memories
    That I really miss when I reminisce

  8. #4638
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    Wheel size doesn't effect things like shaft angles & geometry; only ride height does. What I mean is the front on mine is lower and I'm no longer doing inner CVs.

    If you look at where the groove is machined into the shaft, when it's located in the splined cage, the end of the shaft protrudes a good few MM beyond the splines. So when you get each end of the shaft machined at least you'll still have the peace of mind there's enough meat in there not to cause other reliability issues.

    Btw Did you check the rear gearbox mount? I've broken that on more than one occasion and it can be really difficult to spot unless you take it off to inspect it. With the weight & torque you're now running combined with the ride height it could be well worth investing in some metalastic / alloy mounts, even if it's just the rear gearbox one, to give you the much needed reduction in engine / gearbox movement under load. Beyond that maybe a 4th mount to the front.

    It's no use having all the power in the world if it just repeatedly breaks.

  9. #4639
    Go low or Go home. Moderator Benn's Avatar
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    Ah yeah, yours is deffo lower than mine, that's why your input was very very welcome. As you've sorted any prob like this out before.
    I did look at the groves while taking the boots of the cvs. There is loads on there compared to some i've seen/tried. So i hope they wouldn't ever become a prob.

    I did have a look at the rear mount, with it fitted it all seems fine, can't see any damage or marks that would say it's had a beating. But i might pop it off to check it just in case. The glued mounts have taken all engine movement away tbh. But can see your point on it. I do really like the idea of the 4th mount, as it would take up the strain. Might be something to look in to, when i get my fab skills up a bit.

    This is one main reason i don't have confidence in the car at the mo, breaking stuff. I want to be able to know i can really push it and it wont break. Then i can final ph2 it...
    All I wanted was a Pepsi, just one Pepsi
    Far from suicidal
    Still I get them tendencies
    Bringing back them memories
    That I really miss when I reminisce

  10. #4640
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    liking your sig

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