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Thread: *HOW TO* Rose jointed Linkage

  1. #121
    User Dan Stanley's Avatar
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    Really want to have a go at this, but can't weld. Ive read through this article and am a little confused as to whether I can just cut threads or have to weld. Can anyone help me out with some advice?
    I'd like to adapt my standard linkage to be a shortshift also, with new nylon bushes and a standard under car nova gear selector on a corsa F15 'box.
    PM me if you can help, or offer a pre-made example please.

    Thanks

  2. #122
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    Hi guys will this work on a linkage that's on a f28 box? As want to do it to mine but want to make sure the list that was given in previous posts is the same as doing it on a linkage for f28. Or has anyone done one on a f28?

  3. #123
    ...caught a Spider Club Member Novasport's Avatar
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    Made a first attempt at making a rose jointed linkage. I am not too keen on the vertical positioning of the rose joints as to me the force on them is working the wrong way.
    I have cut off all the old ball joints and cups and had the holes where the balls were welded up. I have drilled the front and rear rods to accept an M8 rose joint and bolted the joint to the main pivot with a cap head screw with a 10mm deep, 12mm OD spacer to try to put the joints in a similar position to the originals. Still a work in progress and there are little changes I would make if I did it again.



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  4. #124
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    I think you might have done that the wrong way round. you might struggle to move the gearstick left and right. IE you'll struggle to get reverse and 5th

  5. #125
    ...caught a Spider Club Member Novasport's Avatar
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    There is quite a lot of movement left to right so dont think it will be an issue looking at the throw on a standard linkage.
    I can have a chamfer machined on the shoulder of the spacer and the underside of the bolt if required which will allow more movement.
    I have a Griffith Quickshift which works the same way. It is still a work in progress so we will see. I just think it looks a lot neater this way.
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  6. #126
    Club Member Club Member Iain's Avatar
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    I've tried several iterations with the rosejoints both ways round. Yes it does depend on amount of movement and what bolts/misalignment gear you're running, but in my experience RJs bolted through the ? shaped metal does work better. There's more left-right movement required than forwards-backwards.

  7. #127
    Club Member Club Member Iain's Avatar
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    For anyone using the cheaper range of McGill ones, expect to replace them in your linkage after so many thousand miles (15-20k?)

  8. #128
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    Quote Originally Posted by Iain View Post
    I've tried several iterations with the rosejoints both ways round. Yes it does depend on amount of movement and what bolts/misalignment gear you're running, but in my experience RJs bolted through the ? shaped metal does work better. There's more left-right movement required than forwards-backwards.
    Iain, in your experience do you recommend it as Novasport has done above? Or the actual rose joint male part bolted through the U shaped part?
    Last edited by C16xe; 17-02-19 at 10:03 AM.

  9. #129
    Club Member Club Member Iain's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by C16xe View Post
    Iain, in your experience do you recommend it as Novasport has done above? Or the actual rose joint male part bolted through the U shaped part?
    I'm sure I've done mine the other way round - Male part of RJ through the ?

    There's more movement across left/middle/right/reverse than forwards backawards from what I remember.

    I had various issues with them undoing themselves, but not touched my RJ linkage in years after changing it to this way round.

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