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Thread: *HOW TO* Internal Cavalier gear shift

  1. #11
    User mulletor's Avatar
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    does any1 know if the gearstick is held in neutral position then how much is the rod protuding.need good measurement.
    as i have an astra 1 and it has already been cut and chopped. and is the hole in the bulkhead the same if you use a f28 and c20let.

  2. #12
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    Good guide!
    I thought about doing this a few times, but in the end just rose jointed the standard linkage, my exhaust guy also said there were no problems running the 3" exhaust under the car with the standard shifter in place, so i suppose its personal preference!

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    Can someone measure the diameter of the Cavalier rod? The bit that you have to straighten and shorten...

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    Very good guide, thanks for this!

    This guide is only for cavalier shifter ? Does astra mk2 ones fit ? What the difference between astra mk2 and cavalier shifters ?

  5. #15
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    To be honest anything 'should' work as its all got to be retrofitted, so as long as you have a half decent tech head you should be able to get it all to fit. Measurements etc are pointless as this job is largely an 'on the fly' job, meaning you have to just play with it on the car and cut and weld things once trying them in place once or twice.

    I started as above by removing all the centre consol excess metal, then cut the hole in the bullk head roughly in the right position. I then cut the end off my Nova linkage and fed it through the hole:



    I then cut roughly the right length off the cav shifter bar ready to weld the 2 together.



    Before welding the bars together I welded part of the Cav tunnel to over the top of the novas so it lifted the shifter up towards me (this is personal preference and you can mount urs however you see fit.)



    I then centralised (ie neutral) the gearbox and the gearstick to get them roughly alligned.



    then it was time to weld the two together. then allign/adjust them in the normal way.


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    2 things please,

    1. do you remove 3" from the straight section then reweld the end with the kink back on or should it be straight all the way with no kink at all?

    2. im using c20let with f28, do i use the original unmodified f28 linkage on box or the modified one using nova arm and shortened shaft which i had working before hand?

  7. #17
    Club Member R1CH's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by heds
    2 things please,

    1. do you remove 3" from the straight section then reweld the end with the kink back on or should it be straight all the way with no kink at all?

    2. im using c20let with f28, do i use the original unmodified f28 linkage on box or the modified one using nova arm and shortened shaft which i had working before hand?
    1. You remove the kinked part so it ends up being straight

    2. The Cav shifter just bolts up to the linkage the same way as the std Nova shifter did, no need to change / adjust the linkage at all.

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    do you still need to shorten the rod on the linkage or flip the white plastic block or should these be left as they where made?

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    Club Member R1CH's Avatar
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    You'll still need to modify the linkage to fit the F28, you've gotta shorten the rod that the white plastic bit fits to - cant mind by how much, 40 - 50 mm ??
    Whether you use a std box or an F20 / F28 you'll need the linkage to suit, the Cav shifter will bolt up to that linkage in the same way as the std Nova shifter would.

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    Would anyone know if a Vectra B linkage would work ?



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