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Thread: Spaceframed SR20DET RWD Nova

  1. #1571
    Moderator burgo's Avatar
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    For me the lower dash bar is what confuses the whole thing so much, theres simply no need for it. With that in mind this is probably a sort of route I would go
    .

    I think you could adapt bars 1,2,3 into your design quite successfully though. I'll have another look at how i would do it with the two dash bars when Im not supposed to be asleep

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    i would go along with something like this and same on the opposite side if enough room.

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    Senior User Mike's Avatar
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    One continuous radii of tube around the top mount from the upper chassis tube, basically encircling the top mount by 180 degrees. Then plate the remaining area between top mount & upper chassis tube. Forward triangulate it to the lower box section chassis & triangulate it from the A pillar tubing. Weld in a few gussets on the joins to finish.

    No biggie. Job done.



    And you could be really trick and continue forward "wire framing" it so youll have somewhere to mount the headlights/indicators and bumper, rad etc etc using something like thin wall 10mm OD tube. Like this mean machine built in a shed in America by a 20 odd year old lad






    Last edited by Mike; 14-01-14 at 06:59 PM.

  4. #1574
    Senior User The Simps's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Benn View Post
    Kinda like this,

    Then you can remove a bar, bend a bar and a bit of flat shaped plate. (Which you could add a wheel tube too)


    This is something I considered and looked at. I had a go at taking the a pillar bar onto the top of the turret top with it being angled, like my drawing below, with the idea of then having another piece starting the other side of the turret or from the chassis like you've drawn. I discounted the idea like my drawing as I wanted something that wrapped around the turret not just start stop. The wrap around like above I would want it to join up at a right angle not angled to the main support. I personally think it would suit the look of the tubs better.


  5. #1575
    Senior User The Simps's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by burgo View Post
    For me the lower dash bar is what confuses the whole thing so much, theres simply no need for it. With that in mind this is probably a sort of route I would go
    .

    I think you could adapt bars 1,2,3 into your design quite successfully though. I'll have another look at how i would do it with the two dash bars when Im not supposed to be asleep

    The reason for the lower dash bar was more to profile the bulkhead nicely and add a touch more strength.

    There isn't enough room to run a bar from a pillar and over the turret. The wing is basically sat on the top of the turret plate towards the front of the car. I could I guess cut some of the wing away and the side of the bonnet but thats just not tidy enough to me personally.

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    Senior User The Simps's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jonn View Post
    i would go along with something like this and same on the opposite side if enough room.

    That would be getting a bit too close for wheel clearance and complicates the tub design and looks.

  7. #1577
    Senior User The Simps's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike View Post
    One continuous radii of tube around the top mount from the upper chassis tube, basically encircling the top mount by 180 degrees. Then plate the remaining area between top mount & upper chassis tube. Forward triangulate it to the lower box section chassis & triangulate it from the A pillar tubing. Weld in a few gussets on the joins to finish.

    No biggie. Job done.



    And you could be really trick and continue forward "wire framing" it so youll have somewhere to mount the headlights/indicators and bumper, rad etc etc using something like thin wall 10mm OD tube. Like this mean machine built in a shed in America by a 20 odd year old lad







    That design was also considered but getting the bend nice around the shape of the turret top is beyond my skill set but essentially thats where my current design evolved from. I know a continuous tube would be stronger but what I've done isn't exactly weak either! The important thing I need to do is support that outer right edge to counteract any twist under vertical load. I think this can be achieved with the tubbing and running along the where the wing mounts are then down to chassis.

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    Senior User The Simps's Avatar
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    That work of art above is from an aussie lad who believe it or not had never welded, bent or profiled tube before. He bought himself a TIG & bender and went from there. He mocked up a lot using plumber plastic pipe. Its also running an SR20DET lump and running gear and originally ran the front & rear subframes but as his skills improved he decided to just make his own.

  9. #1579
    Senior User Mike's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Simps View Post
    That design was also considered but getting the bend nice around the shape of the turret top is beyond my skill set
    Yellow Pages > section benders/steel fabrication.

    That's the only route Id go IMO. Granted its your car/build/time/money etc but last thing Id want to do is finish a build like this and always be thinking "I wish Id have done it like that, or like this" etc etc. But would look nice, neat, pleasing on the eye, and can easily add tubing to it in the wing mount area down to the chassis as you've already said.

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    My pipe bender, with the size tube I'm using, does a too tight of bend to wrap nicely around the turret. After talking with a local shop that uses a machine bender there profile was too long in comparison. So getting something to contour the turret nicely would be a challenge! I'm gonna have a go tomorrow I think if I can find a bit of scrap tube at doing small, incremental bends every 10mm or so and see if I can put a gradual bend in tidy.

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