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Thread: Help with sub and amp

  1. #11
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    ahhh right looks like ill use this to drive some front speakers den, say no to 6 by 9s

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    Quote Originally Posted by Razorjack
    NO! 600WRMS is far too much for a 250WRMS sub!
    WTF! No it's not

    ALWAYS get a more powerful amp than sub. Always.

    It makes a lot more sense to have say an 800wrms monoblock amp running a singular 300wrms sub, at half gain (or below) than having say a 300wrms amp and a 300wrms sub with the amp on full gain constantly, this is bad news for the amp and the sub would run a lot better if the amp powering it were not straining to supply the power!

    One of the biggest problems people make is buying underpowered amps IMO

  3. #13
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    hmmm i see where you goin with this l14 makes sense

    i supose jack is just saying that incase i turned its gain up to the max n blew the sub :P

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    A 300WRMS amp won't "strain" to reach 300W, hence why its rated at 300WRMS! Put the gain up to max and the amp will be pushing towards its PMPO figures, not its RMS figures. By all means get an amp thats more powerful than the sub and adjust the gain to match, but not excessively so.

    My alpine amp runs about 75% gain to my sub and has never had any issues. Aside from my crappy wiring lmfao

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    hehe yea i see what ya saying dude, so is there any decent sub n amp bundle out there now a dayz that a student can afford?

    i brought that amp, i just got to get a head unit now !

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    I love PMPO figures

    I wouldn't personally run 75% gain on my Soundstream Van Gogh (not the cheap looking $hit with the spider emblem!) 1000wrms 4ch which powers my focal utopia two ways and focal utopia 13" sub - but if you've had no issues then good stuff mate What comps and sub are your running Jack?

    Can't beat my Novas ICE, standard dash speakers and a Sony MD HU (had to blow the dust off that one)

    We can debate forever, the 'will it/wont it' of subs and amps, but consider any future upgrade you may do, it's a lot easier and cheaper buying a new sub than amp! If you 'over budget' on your amp you can improve on your sub and your fronts - if they are powered without buying another amp

    puss puss, what kind of **** do you listen to dude? It makes finding the suitable amp/sub or package all the easier
    Last edited by L14MNP; 06-12-06 at 01:32 AM.

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    err well personally i listen to all types of music o.0, but i would say mostly dnb rip hop rap mc r n b dance, basicly things like that :D

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    Quote Originally Posted by L14MNP
    What comps and sub are your running Jack?
    Just cheap n' cheerful stuff really, dunno what the comps are - I assume they're std fitment. The JL 10W3 runs off an Alpine MRD M605, factory test chart shows it with RMS of something around 340WRMS iirc even though its only listed as 300WRMS

    Both ebay specials which came up at the right time and right price, but work well together so I'm happy. Given the time and money I'd be temped to buy a similar setup for the nova, but perhaps more powerful kit :D

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    I've gone for a Vibe Active unit. Not the cheapest but puts out a good solid low end and the amp is perfectly matched to the sub.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Razorjack
    A 300WRMS amp won't "strain" to reach 300W, hence why its rated at 300WRMS! Put the gain up to max and the amp will be pushing towards its PMPO figures, not its RMS figures.
    RMS figures on a amp are at around 3/4's of the gain, past that is going up to its Max power output, thats when it starts to distort.

    when it comes to audio, cheap stuff doesnt last anywhere near as long, we had one guy buy 3 12" JBL subs cos he kept blowing them, that money would have bought a nice 12" JL W3 which wouldn't have blown and sounded much nicer.

    Dont skimp on quality if you cant afford decent stuff right away, save up until you can, you will be glad you did in the long run.

    I would recommend a JL 12" W1 (it has W3 technology but with a W0 price tag)

    and a JL A1400 monoblock amp.

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