Thanks for the complement :-)
To be fair, I dont actually build or rebuild the engines myself as I have a friend that I trust implicitly to do that. He did a fantastic job with my 1400 8v and the new 2.0 engine is wonderful. His next one is a 1600 16v on TBs with SBD cams, lifters etc.
Paul..
I've finally started to get my act together with the welding, I started to get the chassis strengthening plates welded in after a bit of jiggery pokery to get them to fit nicely.
You can see that the front nearside lower suspension plates are in, as they are on the drivers side, the nearside front chassis rail plate has also been added along with the reinforcing plate for the front cross member.
As an aside you can just about make out the 'Cree' Led Headlight stuck on top of my welding helmet, I got pished off seeing only the workshop lights reflecting off the inside of the screen, so now I can turn them off and still see where I'm starting to weld, works very well so that's a result
Done the strut tops as well, it is tricky doing a continual weld on these because their profile doesn't match the standard strut tops, having said that I think there is enough weld there to hold them in place over even the roughest airfield single venue.
Place reinforcing plate in position...
Cut out in order to accomodate the adjustable top mounts...
Weld...
Need to do some tidying up before slapping on some etch primer to try and keep the tin worm at bay.
Last edited by TallDave; 28-08-17 at 04:51 PM.
Yes that 1400 motor seems to be bullet proof, fair does to your mate he can certainly build an engine. Now all I need is someone similar, however since I'm sadly lacking having such talented friends, that willl leave me dependent on my own dubious skills! Scarily this is the first time I've stripped down the bottom end of an engine with the intention of rebuilding it, it'll be a challenge to see if I can rebuild it well enough...?To be fair, I dont actually build or rebuild the engines myself as I have a friend that I trust implicitly to do that. He did a fantastic job with my 1400 8v and the new 2.0 engine is wonderful. His next one is a 1600 16v on TBs with SBD cams, lifters etc.
Paul..
Still its the challenges in life that make it worth living, err I think
Right then to celebrate this thread reaching 1000 views, an update is here...
Having replaced the rotten turret panel that borders the inner wings, I've finally cleaned up the flitch panels and puddle welded them back in place, just need a spot of rust protection now along with most of the underside of the car...
I've also had to add some additional small patches onto a pre-existing repair just behind the nearside headlight...
Oh yes, this earlier repair was just slapped over the top of the rusting panel, sooo professional, not! Needless to say I've ground out the old metal so even though the patch looks pretty nasty from the other side, at least it won't continue rusting (he says hopefully).
I then had too make up a patch for the same area on the offside, fits pretty well though I'll admit it isn't up to expert standards...
and finally I have covered over the heater hole by welding a plate over the hole from inside the car (hey car spits rule!)...
Still got loads to do but at least progress is being made
Last edited by TallDave; 28-08-17 at 04:57 PM.
Keep at it :-)
Paul..
Looking good Dave, welding looks great, Looks all too familiar to mine at the moment removing previous bodges etc!
Josh
Doing my best, but need to do better!Keep at it :-)
Paul..
For instance I've spent the last couple of days modifying the rear engine mount and dummying up my gearlever linkage.
Assembled my spare engine block and empty gearbox casing an hoisted it into the engine bay from underneath (sorry Benn)
The engine mount is sorted, and fairly happy with the revised gear lever turret which I have had to lower somewhat from my original effort. This was necessary in order for the rod to gearbox link (the one that pivots on the rear gearbox mount) misses the steering rack, though that might be useful...!
Will post some photos soon.
Cheer Josh, yup all to familiar, its the fact that others on here are taking on even more work to restore their cars that helps keep me going!Looking good Dave, welding looks great, Looks all too familiar to mine at the moment removing previous bodges etc!
Josh
Wow!! You are tall!!!
Some top work here mate, keep at it!!
Any chance of some photos showing how the spit mounts at the rear? I can only assume the front is on the bumper mounts?
I'm looking at using one over this winter as I've got a lot of underseal to clean and replace and also some strengthening welding to do under there too!!
Told you so...Wow!! You are tall!!!Somehow I have to fit that frame into the confines of a Nova with a roll cage fitted...
Thanks, still got sooo much more to do!Some top work here mate, keep at it!!
Any chance of some photos showing how the spit mounts at the rear? I can only assume the front is on the bumper mounts?
The rear spit mounts onto the rear bumper mounts, but you need to ensure some muppet hasn't removed the bracing brackets that fit between the inside of the back panel and the boot floor/chassis rail. Mine had just one of these fitted so I had to fabricate a new one for the offside.
You'll really enjoy removing all the under-seal, not. As others on here have mentioned before, a hot air gun as used for paint stripping does ease the process quite a bit. It also helps to keep you warm in a freezing cold garage.
Yeah I've still got the rear braces!! Might run some weld round those braces to strengthen them up.
I'll need a set of front bumper irons.
I've taken the decision that putting it up on stands and laying under it to remove the underseal will be too much effort!! Plus welding upside down is for real men and I'm not one of those.
Where's the best place to get a decent rollover jig from, happy to weld it together myself. Must be one second hand somewhere!!!
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
