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Thread: 1.6 16V on TB's trackday weapon

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    Small Block Club Member CP's Avatar
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    Default 1.6 16V on TB's trackday weapon

    Intro:
    The car was first bought by my son as a nice red 1.4SR on an H plate.
    Following an off road excursion into a wall the front wings were replaced and the engine re built with a Blydenstein head, 275 Piper cam and performance exhaust.
    I then started to take it to track days, the first of which was at Kemble airfield around 2002. During this period it was modded and re-modded each time it broke thus:

    1. Old 1.4 8v Blydenstein head, 275 Piper cam, Wilwood 4 pot front brakes plus Twin 40's.
    2. 1.6 8V Blydenstein head, 285 Piper cam, Twin 40's, Performance exhaust, coilovers alround, stripped out, bucket seats and rollcage.
    3. 1.4 16V Velos built engine on TB's and running DTA management circa 180hp, slicks
    4. Current engine 16XE 16V SBD built engine on TB's with MBE management and a load of mods that I will post next
    I am the rep monster - give me all your rep and I will become all powerful and take over the WORLD!!!

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    Club Member Club Member novarally's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CP View Post
    3. 1.4 16V Velos built engine on TB's and running DTA management circa 180hp, slicks
    Velos, now there's some memories.
    To contact me please use E-MAIL to colinesmith@aol.com.

    thousands of Nova (plus other Vauxhall and motorsport parts) available.

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    Small Block Club Member CP's Avatar
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    Engine: SBD 16XE 16V
    http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/b...0engine001.jpg

    SBD spec 2.5" 4:2:1 S/S manifold and exhaust system
    Steel cam belt idler pulleys
    SBD prototype 1.32mm steel pressed Head gasket
    16XE block bored out to 79mm
    Peco 480 Hiflow Yellow fuel injectors
    SBD dry sump system
    Ultra small racing alternator
    SBD modified cam cover to suit dry sump
    Taper throttle bodies
    MBE 967 ECU
    Modified Magneti Marelli crank sensor and housing
    132mm steel con rod set
    79mm Omega/SBD HT slipper piston set
    Ex SBD test head fully ported plus Vernier pulleys
    295 degree, 11.6mm lift cams
    Helix competition paddle clutch
    Competition oil filter assembly.
    I am the rep monster - give me all your rep and I will become all powerful and take over the WORLD!!!

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    Small Block Club Member CP's Avatar
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    An object of beauty really:



    Working out where to put the oil tank:



    As it is now in the car:

    I am the rep monster - give me all your rep and I will become all powerful and take over the WORLD!!!

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    Small Block Club Member CP's Avatar
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    Gear box. With a considerable step up in power I was concerned that the old 5SCCR box wasn't going to hold. I was already having problems with the phosphor bronze rings in the 1st - 2nd synchro destroying themselves so I stumped up the readies for a new-yes-new dog box kit.

    In case anyone is wondering what's the difference in all of this? On the left is a Quaife 5SCCR (straight cut close ratio) synchro cluster and on the right, a standard road going cluster:



    By contrast here are some pics of a Quaife dog box cluster which is a non synchro uprated straight cut set up that used a gearbox from a Fordson Major tractor as its design inspiration . Rally drivers like them cos the use of the clutch is optional and they don't break very easily. The gears grate all the time but it doesn't appear to matter - you just slam it from gear to gear as rough as you like which is another appealing factor to rally drivers !
    Note the much beefier cogs and considerably beefed up selector forks:

    [IMG]http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/b...ostdone014.jpg[/IMG]

    [IMG]http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/b...ostdone011.jpg[/IMG]

    [IMG]http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/b...ostdone010.jpg[/IMG]

    [IMG]http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/b...ostdone009.jpg[/IMG]
    I am the rep monster - give me all your rep and I will become all powerful and take over the WORLD!!!

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    Gearbox cont/d:
    I had to make this bracket up to hold the clutch cable:




    What I wasn't told by the supplier ( yeh mate it goes right together no probs) is that you end up having to get a burr to work to grind away some of the inside of the bell housing to get the pinion and crown wheel to fit into it properly cos they are too big:





    The uprated selector kit and where it goes. Never the quality- feel the width!:



    I am the rep monster - give me all your rep and I will become all powerful and take over the WORLD!!!

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    Gear change:

    Being a miserly sort I thought I try and make up my own direct to box gear change linkage.
    The first thing you discover about this genius idea is that really the steering rack is in the way. And you may have also noticed that when you lower your car the steering rod ends are angled up rather than being parallel with the rack. This promotes bump steer which is a big no-no on track. Not a problem, I thought, I'll mover the rack up. I had already converted my rack to a quick rack so I set about mover it up:

    old standard mounting points:


    new position - note hole for gear change through shaft



    next I discombobulated an old shocker and nicked the shaft and end seal housing.



    which was installed thus:




    Next I made up my own gear lever selector assembly:




    added some lengthening pipe



    created this for the business end



    to eventually end up with this



    It did work but not reliably so I happened upon the real deal 2ndhand so I installed it instead which I have to say works much more reliably. Importantly it has the correct 'gearing' so the throw is the correct distance. Its very important to get the engine and gearbox hung on competition mountings so that it doesn't move about otherwise the gear change becomes flakey

    I am the rep monster - give me all your rep and I will become all powerful and take over the WORLD!!!

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    Small Block Club Member CP's Avatar
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    Suspension and general under carriage: I did a lot of the std mods such as seam welding etc early on and had tried various of the usual suspension mods including lowered TCA rose jointed mounts and poly bushing. However after I had looked at various racing touring cars, it was clear that much greater amounts of caster and camber would be desirable. It wasn't possible to do this with anything I could buy which was mainly rally orientated, so I started out on my own plan which in my usual agricultural way involved chunky CAT bolts. The result is something which is well overt the top but at least I can hurtle into a corner, jam the anchors on and chuck it round the corner as brutally as I like and not worry about the whole lot collapsing in a pile of embarrassing bent metal.


    First I mapped out a standard TCA set up:


    Then I bent up some 40x40 box



    Next I fiddled around with a straight steel rod to try and align the new front TCA bracket as close as I could with the rear TCA mounting point



    When finished the front mounting points looked like this and were quite a lot lower anything else available



    I was wary about having a rose joint to connect into the front mounts so I came up with a simple lug with a good strong bolt in it so the new TCA's looked like this







    When finished and in place they looked like this



    Its agricultural but it works and crucially the TCA's now pivot along a line parallel with the bottom of the car and I've been able to drag the front wheels much further forward and get a load of caster dialled. It turns in and corners like its on rails. Much better than any other thing I tried
    I am the rep monster - give me all your rep and I will become all powerful and take over the WORLD!!!

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    A tip for posting pictures, use the [IMG] option as it saves clicking on them to see them
    It's a belter though.

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    I tried that but it still pasted as script. Any tips? What am I doing wrong I'm using photobucket?
    I am the rep monster - give me all your rep and I will become all powerful and take over the WORLD!!!

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