Painting the cage was pretty easy. There were a few funny angles and some parts of the cage didnt get as much paint as others. I painted it while it was on the jig so i could turn it on its side and stand in the *place where the door goes*.
I think you will be fine painting it inside the car
Cool, got mine on the rollover jig at the moment so shoudnt be an issue. Cellulose paint seems fairly forgiving anyway so cant make too much of a pigs ear of it.
How far did you go with removing underseal? Iv got the majority off but some tight spots i am finding impossible to remove it.
Number 1 tool for removing the sealer is a blowtorch
You buy the torch for 15 quid off ebay and the propane bottles are about a fiver
1 bottle lasted me the whole job and is still half full.
when you heat up the sealer it goes super soft like butter and u can just wipe it off with a wirebrush...
just out of interest. How much have you budgeted for your build?
ive just totalled up my expenditure over the past 2 month and it was eye-watering.... i never imagined the costs involved.
Will give that a go then, have been using paint stripper, paint scraper and a wire wheel on an air drill. It takes ages and is totally soul destroying haha
Wire wheel on a grinder wins every time not a wire cup though the one that looks like a disk is the one u want
Are you planning on running the standard blower unit? If so, it has to be boxed in so to speak so there is a solid bulkhead between the engine bay and the blower unit.Originally Posted by tomfromdelmonte
yes that is a kids bike, it was in the way so i 'dropped it in' as they say.
Just wondering how you were going to seal the heater / blower?
With regards to your reality check - nothing wrong with a 1300 / 1400 8v engine. I have been running a 14NV block with 1400 big valve head. std pistons, Kent AST17 cam with solid lifters, ARP bolts and twin 40s on dizzy for the past 2 years in my Mk2 Astra. I do have a Quaife F20 box with 4.8 CWP which makes a big difference - especially a long 1st gear - but we won our class on the Jim Clark National in 2012, Rockingham in 2012 and Rally Barbados this year. Its been a good engine and was producing between 106bhp and 110bhp at the wheels during setup. Ive just had a 20SEH (2.0 8v engine) built which was fitted last weekend so going to see how that goes for a while now.
I do however think that if you can derestrict the breathing on a 1400 16v (with carbs, TBs or whatever) then add a set of ARPs I think a decent but otherwise std x14xe will produce more power than a modified 1400 8v that and is a better base to go from.
Paul..
What events are you looking at doing?
I run a either a F13 CR cluster or a Quaife F10 SCCR cluster in an F10 casing with either a 4.2 or 4.5 CWP and a plate LSD. Either setup would be a good improvement over the standard gearing. You would want the 4.5 CWP for something more tight and twisty and the 4.2 for something more airfield like. If you can find a Quaife SCCR cluster then they are a step up again, as first is much taller (standard 1st gear with a 4.5 CWP is almost useless)
I havnt really budgeted for my current build mate, I tend to just close my eyes to the money I have spent. Less painful that way haha!
But it would be difficult for me to work out as its sort of a cross between a build and a re-shell. I am essentially re-shelling my current rally car (which I threw into a granite wall at high speed) but uprating certain things as I go along, like a better cage etc. Everything else I can transfer from the old car.
wwinstanley...
if you have a nova rally car then you should really start a thread. Would really love to see some pics, even if it is battle-scarred.
I have done a breakdown of everything i spent on the car in the last 2 months and it has come to over 8000 pounds.
Ouch. It hasnt even got wheels on it yet.
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