They stopped using it years ago for a reason. 2pac is nicer and easier to work with, plus if you wanna put 2pac or water over the top you can.
Celly with react with any kind of thinners. Ie: paint 2pac over celly and it reactivate and will craze up or go all slimey.
All I wanted was a Pepsi, just one PepsiFar from suicidalStill I get them tendenciesBringing back them memories
That I really miss when I reminisce
Will it all go wrong painting painting cellulose over 2pk as well??
Guessing mine is 2pk at mo because its metallic? ( all metallic is 2pk? Correct??)
Guess there must be something I can put on first as a barrier if needed??
Not sure on that, never done it that way. I'd use 2pac, get a good twin filter mask (3m make very good ones most body shops use to paint with and a paint suit)
You'll get a much nicer finish with 2pac.
You can get sealing coats. But they'll be 2pac.
All I wanted was a Pepsi, just one PepsiFar from suicidalStill I get them tendenciesBringing back them memories
That I really miss when I reminisce
Thanks, a lot more reading to do me finks.
I'm along way off paint at the mo (thankfully)
unfortunately however, no one will ever be able to match your natural ability ( even if you are a self confessed goon). im sure your project threads demonstrate this.Originally Posted by Stuart
for the rest of us mortals, spraying with cellulose gives a bit more time to work with it before it cures. if you keep it wet and lay it thick you will be able to flat and cut it back to a good finish.
and again, as i have said before 2k in some colours just doesnt suit a nova. this may sound odd but you may not know until you see for yourself.
inspite of what someone else, infinitely better qualified than I regarding paint stating the same...... really doing well regarding the content of your PM a little while ago
More time to do what exactly, if it starts to sag/run you are funked anyway so using 2pak means you can get it cured faster and fixed faster.
Ah cellulose paint. Personally don't think I'll be using it again. I opted to use it after reading "it's easy to work with", "you can buff it to a nice finish"
IMO it's harder than you think.
Decided to paint my engine bay. So rubbed it down very well. Cleaned of all dust etc, mixed primer up. Painted the bay, must have been to thick a coat. Spidered/crinkled up and lifted every layer of paint that was on top of the original colour. I was bad!
Don't know why it reacted so badly tbh, I put it down to the celly primer reacting with the rubbed down 2pk that it was painted in before or to thick a coat of primer and the chemical vapour couldn't escape.
Top coat: after days of re prepping and primer again it was ready for paint. Again it started to very slightly crack again. This time I knew it wasn't applied to thick, I gave it plenty of thin coats. So anyway, got it looking "passable" in the end.
I don't have a clue what went wrong and I was positive I'd done the necessary homework. Obviously not
Might give 2pk a go next
Anyone have any ideas?
I love these threads.
I would just leave it to a painter in the trade.
Ben is right you can get sealers and bar coat which is ment to stop reactions between different types of paints but these to are 2pack products so the best way to do it is buy a little extra 2 pack high build primer and put 2-3 vert light dusty almost coats on then proceed normal coats but not very wet or heavy what you are trying not to do is let the solvent in the primer soften the original paint underneath as this is when it reacts with it so few dustys n then normal coats doesn't matter really how the finish is with primer as you can rub it down for a nice finish to paint over a quick test to see what type of paint is on your car b4 painting is get some thinners on a rag and give surface little wipe if it wrinkles up it cellulose if it just wipes paint off its 2k with a hardner if it dosnt do much it's got lacquer on it. U can get metallic 2k also
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