would this be the same for a c20xe aswell? how do people run in a engine for a motorsport use? i have to run mine in but i cant run it on the road!
would this be the same for a c20xe aswell? how do people run in a engine for a motorsport use? i have to run mine in but i cant run it on the road!
10-20 laps of keen but not full on use imho.... but wtf do I know
an hour or two on your nearest rolling road means you can keep an eye on fuelling etc too with all their monitoring kit. As well as get a power run at the end since it's already strapped down and you have 10 minutes left on the clockOriginally Posted by jonn
Actually we do, a lot of single seaters still run crossflows, and pre crossflows even
It does take a bit more than running temp to run them in, I've seen a new rebuild that was taken for it's power run a bit earlier than it liked and the power was slowly increasing as the rings bedded in.
when i started messing with engines, people were running them as road car engines, and to be honest, they were so loose from new that no wonder people thought the cvh was an improvement......it was almost impossible not to improve what ford did..
tuning a fford kent engine is odd, cos the bore is limited to the original, so they rely on a limited lifetime piston ring..
Last edited by mowgli; 15-10-11 at 08:29 AM.
You cant beat running in a proper old tractor lugging a trailer and it slowly getting faster and faster as the rings bed in, Not forgetting the amount of smoke that was pouring out of it, I could see by the end of the day.
Im so glad this thread actually says about running in a engine properly, Sick of reading "go easy on it for the first 500 miles"
Kendal 30. Has no detergents, just pure single grade mineral oil. Use it for 40-60minutes of steady bedding in (no more than 60% beans), then drain, flush, and replace with your favourite tipple.
When you bed it in, DRIVE it, don't thrash it. Don't allow it to idle excessively. Don't drive around in 30mph limits. Get out in the country where you can give it a fair run.
Engines run in properly last for a long time.
make sure you get one of them magnetic sump plugs to pick up swarf etc
So to recap - full throttle but no high RPM's, allow to wind down/allow the engine to reduce the speed of the car, mineral oil for the first few miles, drive it keen on different roads/speeds then change oil.
Would it be worth using a flushing oil before putting in the everyday oil? If so what? Any fully synthetic 10w40 oils about?
I used to run my 1300 race engines in on the road - about 1hr or so, with a couple of checks in the workshop for leaks after each "lap" of my road "circuit". I would never be more than about 3 miles from the workshop at any time, just in case anything broke/fell off/died.
Because of the level of performance, you won't find yourself on full throttle for long while "driving" it. And you don't want to be either.
Yes - flush out the mineral stuff.
10W40 fully synthetic - yes. Joe Gibbs Driven, Pennzoil, Mobil, all do 10W40. Avoid cheap brands.
Another tip - "Oil is cheaper than engines" ie: use the best oil, and change it regularly. I remember a rep from AmsOil telling us how we could run our race engines on their stuff all season without a change. I asked how much it was a litre (about a fiver in those days), and how much an engine rebuild cost..... I'll change the oil every meeting thank you.
This lot are good....
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-657-10w-40-engine-oil.aspx
The Motul, Redline, or Amsoil. I'm not a lover of Millers or Fuchs.
http://www.fluidsinmotorsport.co.uk/ - another source. Total Quartz, and others.
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