Where can I get SPLX stuff

[Chazsxi]

What are Alpine type-s subs like?

[Paul]

weak, theres better subs dan dem for da money JL, JBL etc...

[epo]

jl r spot on but a bit pricy i find but i know ur payin 4 quality

[Fletcher]

i have been a member on here for ages, and although i dont post much i do read this forum quite a lot, and i can honestly say i have never read so much bullsh1t in all my life

SPLX is SH1T, there is no other way of looking at it, it is low budget worthless tat,

dissagree?? get yourself on www.talkaudio.co.uk and ask on there

[Matty T]

i have been a member on here for ages, and although i dont post much i do read this forum quite a lot, and i can honestly say i have never read so much bullsh1t in all my life

SPLX is SH1T, there is no other way of looking at it, it is low budget worthless tat,

dissagree?? get yourself on www.talkaudio.co.uk and ask on there

Hehe, amen brother!

[Tigz]

lashednova How can you compair JL with JBL Im sorry son but JBL are not in the same leauge as JL!
And how can you say that Alpines subs are weak when compairing them with the likes of JBL and SPLX?

Ben3042 The Nemisis is ok for the money, but you need a power plant to run the thing, so someone wanting to buy SPLX is not really gonna have the electrical system to run something like that are they? And you try run a SPLX sub that will run at 1ohm.

Those of you who are running SPLX system I challange any of you to come aound beat my system with you cheap arse shite.

The reason that you can only buy SPLX form the likes of MotorWorld is because there is only Motorworld that have the balls to sell people shite that will last you 12 months (if you've set it up right) before catching fire.

[Onnie]

Hi guys, i just want to make you aware of a few things to help you on your way...

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firstly POWER.
When looking for the power an amp puts out or a speaker can take, always look for the RMS value, everything else is not good..

for example, you will see many amps advertised as 1000 WATTS MAX POWER! for ?150..

sounds like a good deal dont it, but what the manufacturer wont tell you is that, the amp will only do that power if struck by lightning and for about 0.01 seconds before bursting into flames... not good, you need to find the RMS value, basically RMS tells you how much power the amp can put out without any distortion all day long..

unfortunately, its usually the cheaper manufacturers that quote these max power figures because there products are targeted at the ICE novice who doesnt know any better.

to find rms values, typically divide MAX POWER by 3. suddenly our 1000 WATT amp is now putting out 333wrms, big drop huh..

even more devious is when manufacturers combine the rms power of all tha channels into one large rating, this is no good either, say we are talking about a 4 channel amp, take those 333wrms and now divide that by the number of channels (4) so now its down to 83wrms..

so now we are down from 1000 watts max to 83 wrms real world everyday useable watts.... :wink:

just be aware of this.

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FUSES

make sure you ALWAYS use a correctly rated inline waterproof fuse not more than 8 inchs away from the battery... if you dont, YOU RISK YOUR WHOLE CAR BEING BURNT TO THE GROUND

to work out how big the fuse should be, add up all the fuse ratings of your amps that will be feeding off that cable, the total value is the fuse you will want to use..

there is alot more to explain on current and fuses but im just trying to keep it simple for novices..

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WIRING

make sure you use nice chunky wiring, if an amp is going to chuck out 1000wrms, it needs to pull current, if your battery and wiring cant supply the current, something is going to get damaged.. worst case scenario, the cable melts and sets fire to your car (see fuses section above) or your amp dies because the supply voltage dropped too low.

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SPEAKERS

Again, look for RMS power ratings as this is a real world all day long figure, max power is what the speaker can handle for a brief second before it dies..

same applys, some manufacturers, usually the budget ones, err can give enthusiastic power ratings.. take with pinch of salt.

Also, whats the deal with as many 6x9s loaded into the parcel shelf as possible?? there is no need for this!

1st thing, where do you sit?? so why the hell have you got the speaker reproducing all the main frequencies of music about 3ft behind you??

I recommend you always ditch the 6x9s idea and invest in a good pair of front speakers.. This is the key to good sound reproduction. Even better, if you can, amp them up as well.. also try to use a Highpass filter set around 80hz, this stops the low bass frequincies over exurting them and killing them. below 80hz is what the sub is for

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SUBS

see speakers...

also, there is a little figure called One way linear XMAX, this baby tells you how far your actualy sub can move in one direction while still sounding good.

now on the good subs, not the ridiculously expensive ones, but ones from the reputable manufacturers, you can use it as a guide as to how much air a sub can shift..

did you know if a 10" sub has really high xmax it can actually go louder than a budget 15" sub with low xmax, and you will find all budget subs are low xmax design (usally around 6mm), hey the manufacturer has to make money some way, something has to be cost cut along the way..

also voice coil sizes are important because this can dictate how much power a sub can take... again, the budget manufacturers cut costs here..
do you really think that ?40 sub can take 1000wrms?? no chance

Make sure u switch on the lowpass filter on the amp for subs and set it to around 60hz, this stops all the high frequencies getting thru to the sub which the sub was not designed to play and will affect sound quality..

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BOTTOM LINE

You get what you pay for, this applies to everything in life really, especially so with ICE.

there is more but im gettin tired, i will add more if people want me to?

Thanx



at the end of the day, everyone is different and one person will want to use splx and another DD, RE, Pioneer, whatever.. this is cool, diversity is the spice of life, just please keep everything safe, see WIRING AND FUSES and also make sure that sub box is bolted down, otherwise in an accident it can turn into a 100kilogram head squisher.

Have fun!

p.s for good budget equipment, Pioneer make some good speakers. their TSW-305C subs are pretty cool for a good price. Mac Audio make some good budget amps and also speakers.. oops! forgot, JBL make some good budget gear also and Magnat as well.

:D

[TheWeenie]

You can work out the maximum power that your amp can supply as follows:

1) Find the fuse rating
2) Multiply this fuse rating by the maximum voltage that your car's charging system can cope with (say 14.4v tops)
3) That's the maximum output the amp can handle before the fuse blows.

So if you have a fuse with a rating of 30 amps, your amp is good for an absolute maximum of 432w.

Divide this by the number of channels you've got, and that's the absolute maximum you will ever be able to get from your amp.

30a fuse in a 2ch amp gives an absolute maximum of 216w. Divide this by 0.7 to get the RMS power of the channel, and you soon find that a "1000W MAX" amp is only really capable of outputting 2x150w.

TheWeenie

[badnova]

thanks for this Onnie
helps alot

[Jack]

oops! forgot, JBL make some good budget gear also and Magnat as well.

i second that, my magnat amp is a great little piece of kit