*HOW TO* remove inner wings

[bazil]

o/s engine mount today, not a big job but handy to use this for a F28 conversion, again yellow marks where the spot welds are and where i drilled from, you may need a hammer and bolster to free of this part as the metal is thicker and the welds are stronger as a result.

again if you have any quaestions on this thread please ask.

[findog]

Doing a similar job at the moment and your info is spot on. How do you find the time mate?

[bazil]

im lucky that i dont need to rush the jobs, this shell is giving me practice and knowlage of how the panels are put together so when i get to the gsi i dont get any nasty surprises like i did with the scuttle panel,
better to share and help others if i can.

[bazil]

seat support ( or whatever its called, same as usuall, yellow dots mark spot welds and where there drilled from, no other panels need removed to remove this part.

[MattBrown]

Fair play bazil!

Top member and top write up

[bazil]

cheers matt, next up is the o/s inner wing, again the yellow dots mark the spot welds and the green lines mark seam welds that need ground out,










any questions or comments welcome

[bazil]

n/s chassis leg, now im aiming to remove the full leg in one piece, it is possable to remove the forward section of the leg from the bulkhead only, first the inner wings have been removed ( it would be possable to leave them on and remove the spot welds that hold it to the bulkhead )

the sound deadning on the floor well will have to be removed, then locating the spot welds and drill them out, again yellow marks the welds.


here you need to drill out the spots on the outer sill



then fold up the outer sill and drill the spots that hold the inner sill to the chassis outrigger


now remove the sealer at the bottom of the inner splash guard and drill out the spots here that again go onto the outrigger


you'll also need to drill this one weld from here aswell as its not accessable from anywhere else



into the engine bay now and drill these ones that hold onto the lower bulkhead crossmember



thats all for now as my camera ran out of battery, so untill the next time

[Edd]

Quality stuff Bazil, how many spot weld drill bits you going through ?

[bazil]

Tbh not as many as I thought , about 8 iirc, I'm Scottish so I use them till there done, resharpening on the bench grinder helps,
also thinking that when I remove the o/s leg I'll do it in 2 parts, firstly removing the forward section then the underfloor part seperate.

[bazil]

n/s chassis leg continued,

inside the car once the sound deadning is removed you have this lot to drill out, just remember the floor is very thin in comparison to the actuall leg itself, again yellow dots mark spot welds and where i drilled from,
you will notice that the seat support bar that runs accross the car has been removed, this is not required to remove the leg, it can be left inplace and the spots that hold it to the floor at the same point as the leg can be drilled easily.



now to the underneath, as there is no access to these welds from inside the car they must be removed from the underside



then with a little pulling and making sure all the welds are free and not still attached the the body ( sometimes you may find the weld has a little skelf of metal still holding on ) this is what you get off,




now here you can see the reason why not all the welds are accessable from inside the car,


any questions or comments welcome,