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Thread: pip's mk2 gsi replica build

  1. #121
    User Club Member nova_pipi's Avatar
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    I had a good idea of where I wanted to go with the car now so the plan is a full respray underneath, inside and outside whilst applying raptor gaurd underneath and then paint over this.
    The car colour has been decided but I'm going to keep it to myself until it's painted.
    I'm going to make the engine bay minimal and have headed down the c20let as I got hold of one for a good price through buying a rally spec corsa.
    It had perspex windows
    Hydraulic handbrake
    Full weld in cage
    C20let
    Eqaul length Shafts
    Big block hubs
    F16 gearbox
    256mm brakes
    Lightened shell and wiring
    Cobra bucket seats
    It was also a genuine corsa gsi on the log book but had lost alot of its parts over the years and was nothing but a corsa really.

    The engine was missing a few bits like ecu and loom but I managed to get it for a good price so was worth while.

    Here's some pictures.

  2. #122
    User Club Member nova_pipi's Avatar
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    So I managed to get the car rolling and out of the garage for a few photos and further strip it, I was planning on taking all the underseal off whilst the car was on these trollies but I opted to buy a pre welded jig from eBay which worked out brilliantly and allowed me to get into all the required bits that needed welding and strengthening

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  3. #123
    User Club Member nova_pipi's Avatar
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    Once on the jig I could underneath the car properly so I fully stripped the underseal off with an angle grinder and a wire wheel which worked wonders but still took longer than I thought it would. As expected it revealed a few crusty bits that required some attention and bits I wasn't happy with.
    I started with the chassis legs that were dented and damaged but I cut out the sections I wasn't happy with and welded in sections of 3mm steel and ground the welds back, I didn't want any dirt and such getting in behind the front wheel arch and the chassis leg so made a plate to continue the splash guard into the chassis leg to eliminate this problem.
    Ignore the horrible welds they have since been ground back and tidied up as they weren't great and I'm new to welding.
    I've always wanted to re route the fuel filler too so thought this would be the perfect opportunity.
    Last edited by nova_pipi; 21-08-17 at 11:49 AM.

  4. #124
    User Club Member nova_pipi's Avatar
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    I decided to then turret the rear end and add a strut brace in between to allow for more suspension travel as I want to run the car low but previously this meant running it very close or on the bump stops which obviously made the car feel horrible.
    I started off with buying mk2 escort rear turrets then trimming these down to what I required then measuring into the car and cutting out to suite then weld in both inside and out.
    I'm really impressed with how they turned out and from my calculations should be able to run low but at a good height if needed along with the rear bench still bein able to fit. They are roughly 2.5" higher than the standard platforms.

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  5. #125
    User Club Member nova_pipi's Avatar
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    Some more pictures of the turrets

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  6. #126
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    You need to set the amps on the welder higher / highest & possibly a bit more gas. I like the effort in this - Because you're at this stage I'd advise tubing the rear arches to compliment the turrets (which would also be best with another couple of inches on top).

    Now is the time!

  7. #127
    User Club Member nova_pipi's Avatar
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    I was thinking of doing it at the time but I want to retain the rear seats still and if I was to tub the rear then surely I'd have to remove the rear seats as there wouldn't be any brackets and the width of the back would be too narrow to fit any in?

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    Fill it full of cage & never look back

  9. #129
    User Club Member nova_pipi's Avatar
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    I've not updated for a while but whilst all this work was going on I decided to start the engine strip down and rebuild, I didn't want to go into to much depth with the strip down as it would probably exceed my abilities and cost but I feel I went far enough to change most parts and clean them up to look new again so started off by removing the belts, pulleys and cam cover then moving onto the cams and head to reveal a damaged piston.
    As you can see from the pictures it has been hit at some point by valves and left a few indentations but after speaking with a few people and thinking it over the engine must have ran okay after this occurred as there is a carbon build up in the indents so I think over the years this happened and someone rebuilt it and painted the block red and put it back together running.

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  10. #130
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    During the strip down I took a few pictures of the engine numbers and stamps. From what I could find out over the internet HH7 was the later engine c20let I believe? A bit strange how the stamps on the cams were indicating different years though, does anyone know if these are both let cams or is one from a c20xe etc? A picture of the head bolts to reference the lengths too

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