Page 1 of 5 123 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 47

Thread: FIA Kill Switch Wiring

  1. #1
    Senior User nova ian's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Nottingham
    Posts
    1,784
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default FIA Kill Switch Wiring

    Just want to double check that this is the correct way to wire in a kill switch to a car running carbs and no engine management? I have no idea when it comes to electrics so any help appreciated


  2. #2
    Senior User mowgli's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    somewhere in the 80's, hinckley
    Posts
    35,194
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    are you running a car with radio & clock functions?

    if so, then it needs wiring in with a few alterations to the loom to keep working memory.

    the whole concept of competition type kill switches is to completely kill off engine function. so you could take the battery wire to the starter, & the coil wire, and any fuel pump wires & run them thru the switch thus it is also a useful immobiliser, & you keep the rest of the loom intact.

  3. #3
    Senior User nova ian's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Nottingham
    Posts
    1,784
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Thanks for the info, yes I want the switch to kill everything. I have nothing in the car the requires power when it's off and do intend on using the car for competition in the future so want it wiring in so it would pass scrutenering test.

  4. #4
    Senior User mowgli's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    somewhere in the 80's, hinckley
    Posts
    35,194
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    i've just had a look at it on the holden website, yes, it is pretty much a correct wiring diagram, because it will kill off all the main circuits. it does look like you may need the services of an auto electrician to help you sort it out in a tidy & safe manner, because it will entail altering the fuse box wiring too.

  5. #5
    Senior User
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Chester, Cheshire, United Kingdom
    Posts
    7,282
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Not to "overcomplicate things"

    But, whenever I have fitted/seen fitted

    They always kill the neutral, as no earth = no damage etc.

  6. #6
    Senior User mowgli's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    somewhere in the 80's, hinckley
    Posts
    35,194
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    this one has 4 extra points on it. it is to ensure everything gets turned off....

    think crash damage, heat, fire, this switch is a proper one, not something to stop pikeys nicking a dumper

  7. #7
    Senior User
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Chester, Cheshire, United Kingdom
    Posts
    7,282
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mowgli
    this one has 4 extra points on it. it is to ensure everything gets turned off....

    think crash damage, heat, fire, this switch is a proper one, not something to stop pikeys nicking a dumper
    Im sure the propper one is a remote cut off.

    One one the bonnet.

    The new ones are done with a remote relay, and they knock everything off when the car is parked up, £240, but worth it

  8. #8
    Senior User
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Leeds, Yorkshire
    Posts
    6,211
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by MattBrown
    Im sure the propper one is a remote cut off.

    One one the bonnet.

    The new ones are done with a remote relay, and they knock everything off when the car is parked up, £240, but worth it
    they have one inside to be operated by driver/co-driver and one on the scuttle panel to be operated by safety marshals. They are usually linked by a cable

  9. #9
    OMG! WTF? BBQ :) Lee's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Newbury
    Posts
    16,724
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    You should't be wiring anything else through the 4 spade connectors other than what is on the diagram. The switch is designed to not only cut off the coil feed but it also bleeds the residual current from the alternator through the resistor when you kill the switch (cheaper switches that just kill the battery will not kill the engine if you switch them off)

    So long as you run the main +ve wire from the battery straight to the switch then it will cut off all other circuits anyway, once the resistor has done the job of shutting the engine down properly, and you shouldnt need to go near the fusebox eiter.

    And to be fair, its a useless immobiliser as you can switch them on with a screwdriver, and the whole point of it is that its in plain view and easy to get at.


    Oh yeah, and dont do what i did and wire the resistor back to front, it smokes like feck

  10. #10
    OMG! WTF? BBQ :) Lee's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Newbury
    Posts
    16,724
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mk1nova_rich
    they have one inside to be operated by driver/co-driver and one on the scuttle panel to be operated by safety marshals. They are usually linked by a cable
    I think you're thinkng of the onboard fire extinguisher.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •