someone help .. please !!!

[Sloth]

dude wtf? brake fluid in the engine? jesus. try fuel. oh and buy a haynes.

[michaelawson]

dude ! i would be more worried if i had brake fluid on my bodywork ! ( well .. on the paint)

[Sloth]

any hydraulic locked engine gen?

[michaelawson]

no signs of any water, inside the cylinder head, looks pretty clean, ..

i still reckon it may be a blocked fuel line, .

[dougie_boi]

fuel lines the right way round?

[michaelawson]

would be worth checking, i had a leak about a month ago :S

[mowgli]

re the window cracking...... use warm tap water & the wipers.... i've been doing that for 20 odd years & never cracked a screen, even in the summer

[Jack]

no signs of any water, inside the cylinder head, looks pretty clean, ..

i still reckon it may be a blocked fuel line, .

No, but there wil be brake fluid in there which by design won't compress or ignite! Hence hydrauliced engine. How will putting brake fluid into the carb check for a blocked fuel line anyway? The fuel lines are before the carb, no?

Spark plug insulator (thats the white bit) cracking is caused by a number of things, including incorrect torque (too loose/too tight); det (check pistons and valves for signs of damage also); water ingress (see above about Hyrauliced engine - the brake fluid shiznit will do the same thing); wrong plugs - are you sure you have the correct ones?

although i did have the satisfaction of crackin someones windscreen with the kettle this morning :P

Please tell me you didn't use hot water from a kettle to defrost a windscreen?

[Nobby]

how did we get from blown plugs to putting brake fluid in the carb!!!??

Back to basics im afraid

1. Check timing
2. Check for fuel
3. Check leads are on in correct way 1342 and dizzy cap is on correctly
4. Check spark

then crank the engine over a few times to get the oil pressure up as the ones we have done wont go sometimes without a tow start.

If you have all the above correct she should obviously go if take it to a proper garage or set fire to it :D

[marc69]

as said previously check leads are correct, on 1.0 models the haynes manual actually has them back to front. I once saw 2 "experienced" mechanics argue with me that they had leads the correct way, that was what the manual said. Well they got it to back fire throgh theexhaust and carb simultaneously! Anyway after they fought for 2 hours, they went for a cup of tea, i whipped the leads around, put a strobe light on it and wnet for a spin.

So chech taht the order is correct and if you can get the timing approxiamte from when the piston is up you should be able to get it running roughly. remember people make the mistake of thinking the outlet or inlet vavle is the one taht is open when it can be the opposite so take your time and double check! Once it is running rough, just get the strobe light etc,

There should be no problem with your carb if you assembled exactly the way you dissasembled it, are the plugs damp after trying to turn the engine over?
If the manifold or carb were leaking, it would run when being revved but not idle.

I am convinced this is a spark problem ie timing/ order.

good luck