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Thread: respraying, need many a tip!

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    the windows are held in with rubbers and you have to go inside and lift and push the rubbers out so they are past the metal of the shell and the windscreen is tricky for your first time. dont use a screw driver etc as this might split the glass i just use my hands .

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    I think you may need to actually go and see (or get someone round) to actually show you the basics. For a start off modern (2 pack (sp?) paints are very different to older (cellulose) paints that your dad may have used and you will need to know what sort you have. The 2 packs require fairly precise measuring containers or measuring sticks since its a chemical process where you are mixing in hardeners as well as thinners. You should also note that 2 pack paints are also poisonous so you must at the very least have the right breathing masks.


    Its very time consuming and what looks easy when someone like Rexy gets at it is actually pretty tricky for a novice. The main thing is to apply more top coats than the pros would do. This will allow you the luxury of being able to mop out imperfections.
    I am the rep monster - give me all your rep and I will become all powerful and take over the WORLD!!!

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    Go low or Go home. Moderator Benn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by G-nova
    180 full car - primer full car - flat primer with 800 - spray colour and laquer - flat laquer with 1500/2000 and G3 then G10 Jobs a good one if you KEEP EVERY THING CLEAN!!!
    No need to prime the whole car tho, asless he's doing alot of repairs.
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    Are you meant to rub down after the colour is applied before you spray the laquer?

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    Go low or Go home. Moderator Benn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by garethcolley
    Are you meant to rub down after the colour is applied before you spray the laquer?
    No no no no no!
    All I wanted was a Pepsi, just one Pepsi
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    Still I get them tendencies
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    Not all cars have clear coat on.

    DO NOT SAND THE BASE COAT BEFORE LAQUER.

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    I wouldn't laquer it being your first time to be honest.

    if your using 2 pack/cellulose you won't need a laquer/clear coat unless you want extra shine (which could be alot more hassle than its worth bearing in mind you can't sand inperfections on the basecoat)

    if you was using acrylic/water based, you'd need laquer/clear coat

    i'd go with cellulose, used it myself, safer to use, it goes hard when exposed to air, so if you don't use it all you can just keep it sealed, while 2 pack...well, if you don't use it then it just goes hard no matter what when mixed.

    you mix 50/50 paint thinner/cellulose paint, some people mix 25% paint, 75% paint thinner on the last coat to get an extra shine.

    If you prime the shell, do not use acrylic/water based primer with cellulose, as the paint thinner in it will make the primer come off and run into the other coats

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    Quote Originally Posted by Benn
    No no no no no!
    ok, im going to spray some bumpers up this week. Ive just rubbed them down and going to primer them. Im painting in 2PK black, are there specific primers available for 2PK? Also, now ive rubbed the bumpers back you can see exposed plastic, should i be looking at using a plastic primer or just standard? Sorry to hijack the thread!!!

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    Yes a plastic primer,adhesion promoter will do if it's only a few rub through bits.

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    while were on the subject of spraying!,
    What pressure(psi)do you have your compressor set at when spraying?
    Also what is the paint mixture when mixing with thinners etc(how much to how much?)
    And do panels that are still in paint just need a rub down with 800wet/dry
    and wiped clean ready for new paint?(would this also apply to new panels that are still in black primer?)


    these answer's may also be handy/useful for curtoise!

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