Iain's 20XE Trackday Nova

[Iain]

I was told the numbers 12mm to 18mm by Harry hockley Motorsport.

Are you running the same suspension geometry both sides?

14mm difference on one side to the other seems a bit excessive, considering you have 4mm difference on other side from full droop to bump stop?

I would not be making the shaft 20mm longer, you need a minimum of 12mm otherwise you risk the driveshaft bottoming out which will destroy the diff.

Edited the numbers no idea where I got 26 from.

So with a minimum of 34 a 20 mm longer shaft would indeed be fine.

[Stuart]

a 20 mm longer shaft would indeed be fine.

bet that's what all the boys say

[Iain]

Very poor quality photos, for which I am sorry. Both cameras dead.

After Mallory I noticed some wear on the outer edge of my slicks. Better geometry needed. Problem was I couldn't really do much on my current set up.

New kit arrived in the post:



Old kit off. Spec was strengthened bottom arms, one piece SuperPro bushes, spherical bearing tiebar brackets, GSi ARB with Powerflex bushes.



New kit on, it's all a direct fit bar the bottom arm hole which needs enlarging to 1/2" (is about 10mm standard I think). This can be drilled out with the engine fitted handily.



With new Lemforder ball joints (available from EuroCarParts/CarParts4Less)



Some caster can be gained with this kit, as can be seen by how far forward the wheel is:



DIY turn plate made up for geometry set ups and caster measurements, thick steel plate with grease inbetwee and skateboard griptape on top:



20 degree markings added, so I can lock the wheel from 20 degrees left to 20 degrees right:



I extended the lower arm fully but still did not gain the camber I needed, so I've filed more of the turrets and brought the eccentrics further inwards.

Before:



After:



This has put me just shy of 1.5 degrees camber on both sides, about 2 degrees positive caster (this sounds low based on the tiebar being fully wound in, so either I've measured wrong or I'm miles off getting the targetted 4 degrees?). I'll reset the toe back to 1mm toe out and test drive it.

Booked onto Cadwell Park 8th July which will be a good test for it.

Thanks to Ben at 'Hangar 30' for the suspension arms and pre/during/after sales service and abuse.

[tb16v]

Nice piece of kit Iain. where did you buy from? been looking into this for mine. How come you staying with the standard ball joints?

[prs]

why do you want 4 degree of camber? that much camber results in less traction on the straights. the thing you want to gain is caster, more caster results in more camber in corners and that's the place where you need the camber .

[Iain]

Nice piece of kit Iain. where did you buy from? been looking into this for mine. How come you staying with the standard ball joints?

Guy called Ben, PM me if you want his contact details. It's the same kit Jonlem was selling a while back.

I don't know what I've got to gain from uniballs in all honesty, they don't give any more adjustment and cause grief with big block outer CVs and their retention nuts.

[Iain]

why do you want 4 degree of camber? that much camber results in less traction on the straights. the thing you want to gain is caster, more caster results in more camber in corners and that's the place where you need the camber .

That's what I said good sir. I have 1.5 degrees camber which I'm happy with, and was aiming for up to 4 degrees caster as per the Nova build manual.

[Dar]

Nice bit of kit Can't wait to see how it improves on track performance.

[Southie]

Looking good iiiiiaiiin, will it take some setting up to get right on different tracks you race at?

[brucer]

Very poor quality photos, for which I am sorry. Both cameras dead.

After Mallory I noticed some wear on the outer edge of my slicks. Better geometry needed. Problem was I couldn't really do much on my current set up.

But its a race car, tyres arnt meant to wear even. If you go for perfect wear across the board then you may aswell have stuck to standard suspension.