Driven Harvey's Astra which is what convinced me I'd be OK servoless, and in turn he's driven mine with the new brakes.
I am expectinga firm pedal and to be able to lock the front wheels, especially with heat in the pads and the bias all the way forwards. I'm getting neither.
RallyDesign are swapping my 0.625 cylinder as it's the only thing left to be at fault.
Doesn't look like anything at fault in the mechanical travel of that pedal box.
Understand you CANNOT compare feel with a servo setup OR some other guys hydraulic setup that's fully bedded in.
When you're running new brakes the run in period on a lightweight car will take longer and longer and longer the bigger the disks are, calipers are then there's pad compound.
I run no servo cant remeber what my master cylinders are My brakes don't feel great at first and get a little bit better on the road, but need to drive it hard and drive the car often to get used to the sensation of no servo assistance my pedal is very firm though feels like I'm pressing a bit of 2 x 4
Originally Posted by Iain
There does look look to be a fair bit of travel on the front cylinder,but if you look at the video you posted the bias bar rocks off the rear cylinder as in the front cylinder doesn't really move until there is some resistance from the rear cylinder which would explain the rears locking however the bias bar is situated.
i would try putting the bias towards the rear then try spacing the rear cylinder away from the pedalbox and see if you can get the bias bar to stay parallel when pressing the pedal like this .when you have it operating like this then put the bias towards the front and try it .i would expect with a bit of heat to able to lock the fronts easily ,with a .625 front the pedal is not too heavy ,heavier than a servo car but too bad tbh
Oh I forgot to mention you wanna run a proportioning valve on the rear line!
I'm definitely starting to feel your pain IainI hope the replacement M/C produces a better feeling pedal.
Nice video by the way, for a moment I though the balance bar was all askew, but then I realized it was an optical illusion due to the viewing angle, doh!
My only comment would be that I think that the bar should be skewed such that Front M/C end should be further back than the Rear M/C when the brakes pedal is 'at rest', if you see what I mean? That is to say that as you apply pedal pressure the bar will pass through being square then at maximum pressure the Front M/C will be closer than that of the Rear, clear as mud...
I'm just worried that the bar might be fouling the tube as max pedal pressure is reached, this would definitely NOT be a good thing as if it is, it will result in unwanted pressure being applied to the back brakes, so might (?) be the cause of the premature rear brake locking.
I'll also repeat (because I'm a pedant) that the whole purpose of fitting a Brake Bias Pedal Box like this one is to enable the proportioning valve used with a tandem M/C, to the nearest skip... That said I notice that 8vCraig has one fitted in his race car, hmm.
Well the braking woes are almost over... After a lot of bleeding attempts, a second 0.625 front cylinder, trying 256 ATE calipers and finally going back to 4 pots. I managed to get a firmer pedal in the end, somehow, who knows. I then changed the friction material up front which seems to have given it a lot more bite, and now it's stopping as it should.
Now I'm done with the brakes, I've given the interior a bit of a facelift and lost a lot of weight in the process.
Original battery location for a reminder:
Odyssey PC680 in it's new bracket for size comparison:
Original battery and bracketry comes in at 12.9kg. The massive +ve battery cable I used came in at a whopping 1.8kg too!!!
New battery in at 6.6kg:
Since the wiring is up front, I've put the battery in the passenger footwell and coupled it with moving the footrest forward due to passenger criticisms
Posh Longacre bulkhead connector fitted and new starter wire made up:
My old dash was incredibly ropey, several years old and sagging in the middle from hanging on the top 2 bolts and cable ties at the sides. I got a new mk2 dash, cut the sides off, welded in various brackets here and there and sent it off for flocking.
Started on the refitting:
Making a carbon blank up for the headunit area:
All pre-wired with plugs for easy plug and play:
Finished pics. It's a mid grey flocked carcass, glovebox and fusebox cover with black binnacles and I think the combo looks cracking and a nice nod to the OE grey dash.
Couple of trick touches most won't notice... Removed the headlight leveller as I no longer have them:
EPAS sensitivity controller is hidden under here, it's actually easily accessible by hand but means I won't knock it:
Brake balance adjuster for the new pedal assembly:
New switch panel, just awaiting new black screws and label maker:
And to stop it sagging I've welded tabs to the rollcage both sides and it's supported at the bottom, so it's very secure now:
Nicely done....
Is the battery mount secure enough against the footrest?
The footrest is on four M6 rivnuts to the floor and the battery cage is four M6 rivnuts to the footrest. It feels pretty secure.
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