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Thread: *INFO* Stitch weld,chassis leg mod & plate kit positions *WITH PICS*

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nova Baz
    What do you do about the two long bolts that go thuoght the tie rod mount after you have welded the plate on?
    refit fit them in the same way.

  2. #22
    Senior User The Simps's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nova Baz
    What do you do about the two long bolts that go thuoght the tie rod mount after you have welded the plate on?
    You may have to drill down the hole and through the plate you've welded on. Remember to ignore my pic on the 1st page as I put mine on upside down! There meant to g underneath the crossmember not on top.

  3. #23
    Club Member Club Member Pistol Pete's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Adam
    A hammered in chassis leg actually looks neater than cut/boxed imo, as it blends in better if you get me
    +1.
    My Rebuild

    They're over there with their new toys. Someone brought them in. No idea who bought them though.....

  4. #24
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    welding ym engine bay this weekend and putting in my plating kit, how far should i beat it in or cut it so ihave clearance for a redtop 16v?

  5. #25
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    a good few cm's

  6. #26
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    wont this failan mot is they spot a huge crease in the panel next to the engine?

  7. #27
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    not if you do a neat job

  8. #28
    Go low or Go home. Moderator Benn's Avatar
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    No, creases in the chassis dont come in to an mot.(no matter how untidy it is) And with the engine in place you wont see it.
    All I wanted was a Pepsi, just one Pepsi
    Far from suicidal
    Still I get them tendencies
    Bringing back them memories
    That I really miss when I reminisce

  9. #29
    Club Member Club Member John's Avatar
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    Would it be better to seam weld around the plates? or just stitch them in?

  10. #30
    Senior User The Simps's Avatar
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    seam will be fine. you want to add strength but not make the shell too rigid. its designed too have some flex.

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