Is that on a proper competition car ? because IMO they should never be that close together when they're that similar mainly due to the ease of mr friendly marshall filling your not on fire car up with foam!
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Is that on a proper competition car ? because IMO they should never be that close together when they're that similar mainly due to the ease of mr friendly marshall filling your not on fire car up with foam!
That's why they're marked with nice big stickers I would imagine. Also seems to be the "done thing" to have the extinguiser inboard or on the left as you look at the front of the car, and electrical on the right or outboardQuote:
Originally Posted by Lee
Straight of MSA website regs:Quote:
Originally Posted by MK999
Plumbed-In Systems
58.
A list of MSA-approved plumbed-in extinguisher kits
is available on request. If AFF, these must be FIA/MSA
homologated. The Large unit should have two points of
triggering, one for the Driver (and Co-Driver in Rallies)
and one outside the car for activation by Marshals etc.
The triggering point from the exterior must be
positioned close to the Circuit Breaker (or combined
with it) and must be marked by the letter ‘E’ in red
inside a white circle of at least 10cm diameter with a
red edge.
Not disputing that fire extinguishers have 2 points of trigger, but the thing in the BMW pic, and next to the extinguisher in other 2 pics, is the outer part of the electrical cut off switch, which is a T handle, which is directly connected via a bike brake style cable to the actual electrical switch.
I bow to you here sire, you are absolutely correct, but I have only seen this done where the cable leading to the interior switch is attached to the extinguisher handle. Otherise, i've only ever seen a button or a proper twist key externally.Quote:
Originally Posted by MK999
i still stand by those two handles on that blue car being easily confused in the heat of the moment. ive seen the aftermath of an accidental extinguisher depoyment. it really isn't pretty and ruins everything inside the car.
if that was MY car i would change that setup asap.
Ok this should end it I hope lol Fitting and explanation of the T pull switches here: http://guy-croft.com/viewtopic.php?t=20 The site doesn't support single post views unfortunately but, scroll down to the pic of the switches.
That is asking for it IMO, but if it clears the regs then it clears the regs i guess.
I certainly would never do anything remotely like that of I were in the same position.
They are a tad close together and the stickers aren't perfectly clear due to how its laid out, the porsche is a better example, but yeah they are easily confusable I guess, and maybe it's a piece of equipment that could be made far better, but that's how it's done most of the time currently, changing them has other implications in "Wheres the battery cut off, I can't see the red T handle" type heat of the moment mistakes.
Wow, this threads gone mental! lol
So to get back to basics and help a wiring retard and kill switch virgin like myself, in simple terms
I go from the battery positive to one on the big terminals on the switch, then from the other big teminal to starter motor. Also from this post I bridge to terminal 1 on the same side (what size wire you recomend for this?)
Then from the second teminal one I got to the resistor and from the other side of the resistor to an earth on the chasis
Terminal 2 to the coil (which wire + or -)??
And finally senond terminal 2 to the ignition switch (again which wire do I use here, I have one of the rocker switch/push button starts)?
Hopefully the above is somewhere near right apart from not knowing which wires to take off for coil and ignition!
Cheers guys:thumb:
And don't forget your T handle on the outside lol
I wont chip in on the wiring of it, Lee is your man for that, I get confused with the normal ignition switches lol